This manual describes the process of building a single throttle lever body, with interchangeable heads, and a physical idle-stop detent latch. This manual was ported from the MKIII version, so you will see the MKIII collective base in the pictures: please ignore this.

The only difference from a regular lever with a throttle latch is that this version has the throttle frame part 1 thing adjusted for a 104-degree throttle grip turn range.

• 1 x 200x10x10mm aluminum square pipe
• 1 x 105x10x10mm aluminum square pipe
• 6 x M3x30mm screws and nuts
• 1 x M3 x 35mm screw and a nut
• 1 x M4x80 bolts
• 1 x PBS-16B button
• 1 x 16K1 10KOhm LINEAR rotary potentiometer

simchair4_models\printable components\peripherals\helicopter\collective lever\b_lever bodies\single throttle collective b206 edition

Please remember to print the latch pin using 100% infill: As at 40% infill, some users have been reporting issues with the part breaking.

1. Assemble the collective base MKIV using a 200mm piece of 10x10mm aluminum piping.

2. Install the decorative cover onto the 10mm tubing.

3. Press-fit an M4 nut into the socket in the throttle frame part 1.

4. Insert a potentiometer into throttle frame p1.

5. Put the throttle frame part 1 onto the 10mm tubing. Drill holes in the 10mm tubing, through the holes of the frame part 1.

6. Press-fit nuts into their sockets, insert 2 M3x30mm screws.

7. Route 4-wire I2C cable and a 3-wire pot cable through the lever. This step may require some patience depending on the wires being used.

8. Solder the pot wires, and route the I2C cables through the cable channel, in the throttle frame: Part 1.

9. Turn the pot fully to the left, then just a notch to the right. Put the throttle grip on (if required, make the hole a bit wider, or squeeze the pot knob a bit, with pliers) in a way, that it will be in “Fully Open” position (See the picture below). Please make sure that the pot is able to rotate freely.

10. Cut a 105mm length of aluminum tubing, and file the ends.

Insert the tubing piece into the throttle frame p2. Drill it through its holes, then press-fit the nuts to the sockets of throttle frame p2. Use 2 M3x30mm screws to fix the tubing piece in it.

11. Route a 4-wire I2C cable through the throttle frame p2 part. Insert the part into the throttle grip, so that the pin of the throttle frame p1, will go into the socket in throttle pin p2.

12. Fasten the two parts of the throttle frame together using an M4x80mm screw.

13. We will be using the physical throttle latch mod for this build. To assemble the modified I2C cable housing part, we will need a PBS-16B button, as well as printed parts from the mod folder. Please note, that the latch pin, should be printed with 100% infill.

14. Disassemble the button, and take out the spring. Insert the spring to the throttle latch socket.

15. Insert throttle latch pin into the socket, squeezing the spring.

16. Glue the socket cover to the I2C connector housing part.

17. Glue the button top, to the latch. You can choose between a small button and a scale 206-style one.

18. Solder the 4-wire I2C cable to an Ethernet cable.

  ETHERNET WHITE-ORANGE -> I2C HEAD CABLE WIRE 1 (+5V)
  ETHERNET ORANGE       -> I2C HEAD CABLE WIRE 2 (GND)
  ETHERNET WHITE-GREEN  -> I2C HEAD CABLE WIRE 3 (SCL)
  ETHERNET BLUE         -> I2C HEAD CABLE WIRE 4 (SDA)

19. To secure the Ethernet cable in its place, use some hot glue.

20. Put the I2C cable housing onto the lever. Use an M3x35mm screw, and secure it, in its place.

21. Solder the cables to your Arduino Pro Mini board, as follows:

  THROTTLE POT AND I2C HEAD CABLE +5V  -> Pro Mini VCC
  THROTTLE POT and I2C HEAD CABLE GND) -> Pro Mini GND
  THROTTLE POT SIGNAL                  -> A1
  I2C HEAD CABLE SCL                   -> PRO MINI PIN A5
  I2C HEAD CABLE SDA                   -> PRO MINI PIN A4

22. Put the lid onto the housing and secure with 4 M8x70mm screws.

23. Make sure all the cables fit snugly inside the enclosure, and nothing touches the magnet: Then you can close the hatch.