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simchair4:guide_collective_body_single-throttle-physical-idle-stop-latch [2019/09/21 21:46] retrogamer |
simchair4:guide_collective_body_single-throttle-physical-idle-stop-latch [2020/08/27 09:07] (current) hc625ma |
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* 1 x M3 x 35mm screw and a nut | * 1 x M3 x 35mm screw and a nut | ||
* 1 x M4x80 bolts | * 1 x M4x80 bolts | ||
+ | * 1 x PBS-16B button | ||
+ | * 1 x 16K1 10KOhm LINEAR rotary potentiometer | ||
==== Repository path ==== | ==== Repository path ==== | ||
- | simchair4_models\printable components\peripherals\helicopter\collective lever\b_lever bodies\single throttle | + | simchair4_models\printable components\peripherals\helicopter\collective lever\b_lever bodies\single throttle |
==== Assembly highlights ==== | ==== Assembly highlights ==== | ||
- | Please remember to print the latch pin using 100% infill: | + | Please remember to print the latch pin using 100% infill: |
==== Assembly Guide ==== | ==== Assembly Guide ==== | ||
- | 1. Assemble the collective base MKIV. | + | 1. Assemble the collective base MKIV using a 200mm piece of 10x10mm aluminum piping. |
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4. Insert a potentiometer into throttle frame p1. | 4. Insert a potentiometer into throttle frame p1. | ||
- | 5. Put the throttle frame part 1 onto the 10mm tubing. Drill holes in 10mm tubing through holes of the frame part 1. | + | 5. Put the throttle frame part 1 onto the 10mm tubing. Drill holes in the 10mm tubing, through |
- | 6. Press-fit nuts into their sockets | + | 6. Press-fit nuts into their sockets, insert 2 M3x30mm screws. |
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- | 7. Route 4-wire I2C cable and 3-wire pot cable through the lever. This step may require some patience depending on the wires being used. | + | 7. Route 4-wire I2C cable and a 3-wire pot cable through the lever. This step may require some patience depending on the wires being used. |
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9. Turn the pot fully to the left, then just a notch to the right. | 9. Turn the pot fully to the left, then just a notch to the right. | ||
- | Put the throttle grip on (if required, make the hole a bit wider, or squeeze the pot knob a bit, with pliers) in a way that it will be in “Fully Open” position (See the picture below). Please make sure that it is able to rotate freely. | + | Put the throttle grip on (if required, make the hole a bit wider, or squeeze the pot knob a bit, with pliers) in a way, that it will be in “Fully Open” position (See the picture below). Please make sure that the pot is able to rotate freely. |
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- | 10. Cut a 105mm piece of aluminum tubing and file its ends. | + | 10. Cut a 105mm length |
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- | Insert the tubing piece into the throttle frame p2, drill it through its holes, press-fit nuts to sockets of throttle frame p2 and use 2 M3x30mm screws to fix the tubing piece in it. | + | Insert the tubing piece into the throttle frame p2. Drill it through its holes, |
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- | 11. Route 4-wire I2C cable through the throttle frame p2 part. Insert the part into the throttle grip, so the pin of throttle frame p1 will go into the socket in throttle pin p2. | + | 11. Route a 4-wire I2C cable through the throttle frame p2 part. Insert the part into the throttle grip, so that the pin of the throttle frame p1, will go into the socket in throttle pin p2. |
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- | 12. Fasten the two parts of the throttle frame together using a M4x80mm screw. | + | 12. Fasten the two parts of the throttle frame together using an M4x80mm screw. |
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- | 13. We will be using the physical throttle latch mod for this build. To assemble the modified I2C cable housing part, we will need a PBS-16B button, as well as printed parts from the mod folder. | + | 13. We will be using the physical throttle latch mod for this build. To assemble the modified I2C cable housing part, we will need a PBS-16B button, as well as printed parts from the mod folder. |
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- | 14. Disassemble the button and take out the spring. | + | 14. Disassemble the button, and take out the spring. |
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- | 17. Glue the button top to the latch. You can choose between a small button and a scale 206-style one. | + | 17. Glue the button top, to the latch. You can choose between a small button and a scale 206-style one. |
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- | 18. Solder the 4-wire I2C cable to an ethernet | + | 18. Solder the 4-wire I2C cable to an Ethernet |
ETHERNET WHITE-ORANGE -> I2C HEAD CABLE WIRE 1 (+5V) | ETHERNET WHITE-ORANGE -> I2C HEAD CABLE WIRE 1 (+5V) | ||
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- | 19. To secure the ethernet | + | 19. To secure the Ethernet |
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- | 20. Put the I2C cable housing onto the lever. | + | 20. Put the I2C cable housing onto the lever. |
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- | 21. Solder the cables to your Arduino Pro Mini board as follows: | + | 21. Solder the cables to your Arduino Pro Mini board, as follows: |
THROTTLE POT AND I2C HEAD CABLE +5V -> Pro Mini VCC | THROTTLE POT AND I2C HEAD CABLE +5V -> Pro Mini VCC | ||
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I2C HEAD CABLE SCL -> PRO MINI PIN A5 | I2C HEAD CABLE SCL -> PRO MINI PIN A5 | ||
I2C HEAD CABLE SDA -> PRO MINI PIN A4 | I2C HEAD CABLE SDA -> PRO MINI PIN A4 | ||
- | | ||
- | 22. Flash the board using: single_collective.ino, | + | 22. Put the lid onto the housing and secure with 4 M8x70mm |
- | + | ||
- | 23. Now it’s a good time to do some cable management: | + | |
- | + | ||
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- | 24. Put the lid onto the housing and secure with 4 M8x75mm | + | |
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- | 25. Make sure all the cables fit snugly inside the enclosure, and nothing touches the magnet: | + | 23. Make sure all the cables fit snugly inside the enclosure, and nothing touches the magnet: |
Then you can close the hatch. | Then you can close the hatch. | ||