Differences

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--- simchair4:guide_cyclic_base [2019/11/04 12:18]
hc625ma
+++ simchair4:guide_cyclic_base [2021/01/07 10:25] (current)
hc625ma
@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 =======Simchair MKIV cyclic base=======
-{{:simchair4:15726039335858592267209709084918.jpg?direct&400|}}
+{{:simchair4:15726039335858592267209709084918.jpg?direct&600|}}
 ====Summary====
-It is a cyclic base, designed to simulate movements a pilot does in a real helicopter. A regular desktop joystick should be tilted to an angle around 40-45 degrees to reach max or min values of its axes, while in a real heli you barely have to move the stick to fly, its more like applying pressure to it, so the nature of movements differs a bit and is closer to reality when you have a long stick. Also, the way that centering is implemented in most joysticks causes movements around the center to be less precise due to noticeable "bump" when going through the center. In this gimbal, centering is made in a different way to avoid this "bump" entirely.
+This is a cyclic base, designed to simulate movements a pilot does in a real helicopter. A regular desktop joystick is tilted, while in a real heli its more like a forward/sideways/backward movement. You barely have to move the stick to fly, it's more like applying pressure to it, so the nature of movements differs quite a bit and is closer to the real one and much more enjoyable with a long stick. If you stretch the stick of your desktop joystick, you have to either move that stick through some enormous (unrealistic) range now or to cut your axis in software, assigning smth like 1/3 of it to correspond to full stick deflection in the sim - which really kills precision. This base is specifically designed for a long stick from the ground up.
-This gimbal can be mounted to the frame under the IKEA GUNDE chair, in a way you won’t even notice it is there when you’re not flying. The detachable stick allows you to take it off quickly when you don’t need it, serving the same purpose.
+The way that centering is implemented in most joysticks causes movements around the center to be less precise due to noticeable "bump" when going through the center. In a helicopter, this is unacceptable as you will be mostly moving the stick around the center. In this gimbal, centering is made in a different way to avoid this "bump" entirely.
+With a regular desktop mounted stick, you have to hold your hand in an uncomfortable position, fighting tension of springs. Try a 2-3 hour formation flight, and your hand will hurt, you will be exhausted, and probably won't be able to hold the formation by the end of the flight. With Simchair cyclic, your hand will always be relaxed in a most comfortable position, due to the built-in force trim system which works especially well in VR, mimicking the feel of a real force trim system (as far as you can go without having a double-decker with magnetic brakes system under the floor) while staying fairly compact and very affordable. Note that to get the full flavor out of the force trim system you'll need Sicmhair pedals as well.
+This base can be mounted to the frame under the IKEA GUNDE chair, in a way you won’t even notice it is there when you’re not flying. There's also a version without a built-in mount, so you can attach it to pretty much everything you want. The detachable stick allows you to take it off quickly when you don’t need it, serving the same purpose.
+This stick is designed for use with long flight sticks that can be of different lengths, that's why there's a compatible sensitivity/rates control panel with 2 rotary pots on it. These pots allow you to set the sensitivity of the stick at any moment, basically, you adjust pots until movements of controls on the screen correspond to those of your physical controls. However, if you're more comfortable with using A/C profiles in your favorite sim, you can use ADC AUX port to connect 2 extra axes to your cyclic!
-This cyclic is designed to be operated with springs for stick centering, and has a built-in force trim system (also works with simchair pedals) and stick sensitivity/rates control panel that allows you to fine-tune it for every helicopter with a turn of a knob.
 ====Components====
   * 2 x SS495A1 Hall effect sensors
-  * 2x M8x60mm bolt + 2 regular washers and nuts
+  * 1 x ADS1115 ADC board
-  * 4 x M3x50mm screws, 8 washers, 4 nuts
+  * 2x 6x6x4mm magnets
-  * 1 x M6x80mm bolt and nut
+  * 4x M8x60mm bols
-  * 4 x 18x6x8mm cylinders
+  * 6x M8x50mm bolts
-  * 8 x 608zz bearings
+  * 4x M8x75mm bolts (optional, depends on the chosen mount!)
-  * 6 x M8 washers for x axis
+  * 4x M8x140mm bolts
-  * 2 x M6 x 40mm bolts, 4 nuts, 4 reinforced M6 washers, 7 regular M8 washers
+  * 32x M8 regular washers
-  * 2 x M4x50mm bolts and nuts
+  * 4x M8 fender washers (large ones)
-  * 22 x M4x40mm bolts, nuts and 20 reinforced M4 washers
+  * 14x M8 spring washers
-  * 2 x TJ8P8C Ethernet sockets (12,5x15x17,6mm)
+  * 34x M8 nuts
+  * 4x M8x25mm connector nuts
+  * 2x M6x40mm HEX(!) bolts
+  * 1x M6x80mm HEX(!) bolt
+  * 2x M6 regular washers
+  * 4x M6 fender washers (large ones)
+  * 4x M6 nuts
+  * 24x M4x40mm screws
+  * 4x M4x50mm scews
+  * 4x M4x60mm screws
+  * 16x M4 regular washers
+  * 4x M4 nyloc nuts
+  * 32x M4 nuts
+  * 4x M3x50mm screws
+  * 8x M3 washers
+  * 4x M3 nuts
+  * 4x 18x6x8mm cylinders
+  * 8x 608zz bearings
+  * 3x TJ8P8C Ethernet sockets (12,5x15x17,6mm)
+  * 4x Sicmhair cyclic springs
+  Note: All bolts used are hex head bolts;
+  Buy 2x supply of screws and bolts listed here to be safe in case smth goes wrong -
+  Phillips screw heads break too easily. There's little more disappointing than having
+  allocated a day for building and not being able to proceed because of not having
+  a single screw at hand.
 ==== Repository path ====
@@ Line 39: / Line 71: @@
 {{:simchair4:15696016489251767520480836217367.jpg?direct&300|}}
-. Insert 2x M8x60mm bolts into the lever connector part. Those bolts should be a very tight fit so tighten the nut on the other side to press-fit them. Put the lid onto the lever connector part.
+. Insert 2x M8x60mm bolts into the lever connector part, put 2 M8 washers and nuts on the other side. Those bolts should be a very tight fit so tighten nuts to press-fit them. Put the lid onto the lever connector part. Fix it with 4 M3x50MM screws, use washers on both sides. Use thread locker to fix nuts.
 {{:simchair4:15696024619755364018522375464348.jpg?direct&300|}}
@@ Line 45: / Line 77: @@
 {{:simchair4:15696092273577311611414751559062.jpg?direct&300|}}
-. Take an M6x80mm bolt and put a 18x6x8mm cylinder onto it. Add 2 washers and 2 608ZZ bearings. Add another M8 nut after you'll put bearings on.
+. Take an M6x80mm bolt and put a 18x6x8mm cylinder onto it. Add 2 M8 washers and 2 608ZZ bearings. Add a M8 washer after bearings. Add another M8 nut after you'll put bearings on.
 {{:simchair4:15696117690704152265369621433179.jpg?direct&200|}}
@@ Line 96: / Line 128: @@
 {{:simchair4:15697713441522774502097279719313.jpg?direct&200|}}
-. Do some cable management and glue the Y axis sensor cable to the side of the outer ring.
+. Do some cable management and glue the Y-axis sensor cable to the side of the outer ring.
 {{:simchair4:15697719031591297242377497912566.jpg?direct&300|}}
@@ Line 102: / Line 134: @@
 {{:simchair4:15697719481138898374356415800068.jpg?direct&300|}}
-. Put axis magnets onto nuts, make sure they are centered, use hot glue to fix them in place.Don't worry about centering axes too much, we'll do it later during the calibration process.
+. Put axis magnets onto nuts, make sure they are centered, use hot glue to fix them in place. Don't worry about centering axes too much, we'll do it later during the calibration process.
 {{:simchair4:15697725340763153694162167640826.jpg?direct&300|}}
@@ Line 115: / Line 147: @@
 {{:simchair4:15722077253953966010302172738548.jpg?direct&300|}}
-.Press fit 2 M8x60mm hex bolts into lever connector part 4. Remove nuts from the part, connect parts 3 and 4, fix with M4x60mm screws and nuts. Put nuts back to lever connector part 4 bolts, use thread locker and tighten them firmly.
+.Press-fit 2 M8x60mm hex bolts into lever connector part 4. Remove nuts from the part, connect parts 3 and 4, fix with M4x60mm screws and nuts. Put nuts back to lever connector part 4 bolts, use thread locker and tighten them firmly.
 {{:simchair4:15721703413888861361496855180202.jpg?direct&200|}}
@@ Line 131: / Line 163: @@
 {{:simchair4:15722099691622840205293697623564.jpg?direct&200|}}
-. Attach the lever connector p3 and 4 assembly to the base. To do it, screw a nut, a spring washer, and a connector nut onto a bolt of the base, then put a nut and a washer onto 2 bottom bolts of the lever connector assembly. Connect them together as shown on the picture below, center the connector nut and fix it with nuts from both sides.
+. Attach the lever connector p3 and 4 assembly to the base. To do it, screw a nut, a spring washer, and a connector nut onto a bolt of the base, then put a nut and a washer onto 2 bottom bolts of the lever connector assembly. Connect them as shown on the picture below, center the connector nut and fix it with nuts from both sides.
 {{:simchair4:15724680373983435235853918468544.jpg?direct&300|}}
@@ Line 176: / Line 208: @@
   SS495A1 X SGNL          -> ADS1115 A0
   SS495A1 Y SGNL          -> ADS1115 A1
-  ADC AUX SOCKET PIN 3    -> ADS1115 A3
+  ADC AUX SOCKET PIN 3    -> ADS1115 A2
-  ADC AUX SOCKET PIN 4    -> ADS1115 A4
+  ADC AUX SOCKET PIN 4    -> ADS1115 A3
 {{:simchair4:15725556555927252443069611624744.jpg?direct&300|}}
@@ Line 191: / Line 223: @@
   MAKE SURE YOUR POLARITY IS CORRECT BEFORE CONNECTING THE BASE TO THE MASTER!
-. If everything works, fix sockets and the ADC board with hot glue and put the lid on. Fix it with 4 nuts, use regular washers along with spring washers.
+. If everything works, fix sockets and the ADC board with hot glue and put the lid on. Fix it with 4 nuts, use regular washers along with spring washers. Below are some pictures of cable management from another build that are better than the original ones. Make sure there are cable joints for each wire group, and only 1 wire goes from each joint to the corresponding ADS pin. The result will look much cleaner and will be more reliable then if you try to solder the joint directly to the pin.
-{{:simchair4:15725583381941877865542376765734.jpg?direct&300|}}
+{{:simchair4:img_20200208_002011.jpg?direct&400|}}
-{{:simchair4:15725584733954132447398033483654.jpg?direct&300|}}
+{{:simchair4:img_20200208_002022.jpg?direct&400|}}
+{{:simchair4:img_20200208_002022.jpg?direct&400|}}
+{{:simchair4:15725584733954132447398033483654.jpg?direct&400|}}
 . Put a nut, a spring washer, and a connector nut onto each bolt of the stick connector.
@@ Line 202: / Line 236: @@
 . Attach the mount if applicable to your chosen version of the base and put a magnet hatch side cover on.
-Congratulations, the base is finished! Don't forget to hook up the rates panel, set it to 100% and go for a test flight!
+Congratulations, the base is finished! Time to assemble the grip along with the stick frame, if you haven't done it yet. Don't forget to hook up the rates panel, set both pots to 100% and go for a test flight!
 {{:simchair4:15726038773691592425892923946106.jpg?direct&600|}}

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