It is a fully operational Simchair MKIII compatible remix of a very nice B8 flight stick replica, originally by schrodingers_cat. It is designed for use with a new i2c controller. It contains an Arduino Pro Micro inside (sketch included). The trigger has two positions: half-press (intercom) and full-press with a click (radio push to talk). When the trigger is fully pressed, a half-press button is disabled by the software, so your sim will see these two positions as entirely separate buttons.
You will need:
1 x Arduino pro mini board
1 x KY-023 joystick module
1 x USBtoCOM adapter (e.g., PL2303) or another Arduino to program it
3 x PBS-11B buttons
1 x PBS-10B-2 button (trigger intercom)
1 x 12x12x4.3mm TS-1202 button (https://goo.gl/mjpt6T) (trigger PTT)
1 x m8 x 75 bolt and nut
1m of UTP-5e cable
1m of 10mm aluminum square pipe
6 x m3x20 screws and nuts
1 x m3x40 screw for trigger mounting
Hot glue gun
The assembly pretty much consists of joining the halves together, when finished with electronics, and putting a trigger on after that. At first, we need to solder wires to PBS-11B buttons and insert them into their sockets. Bend their legs as shown on the picture below, then solder wires to the innermost areas of contacts (so wires wont be damaged when you will be inserting the button into its socket):
To fit the KY-023 module into the stick, we need to cut off its upper left corner (no worries, there’s nothing useful there :D).
Connect everything as shown in “Electronics” section below. Here’s how the result should look like:
PTT TS-1202 button is glued with hot glue to the left half part just under the PBS-10B2 tip, which goes into the trigger (adjust its position so the PBS-10 button tip will push to the center of it). Fix wires with hot glue (make sure screw holes are not covered with wires!), add some glue to an ethernet cable. After joining halves of the stick together and tightening (be gentle!) screws, attach a trigger with m3x40mm screw. Insert the screw to around 80%, add a small drop of hot glue to fix it in place, insert it fully, wipe any leftover glue with a paper towel (use a knife if needed, hot glue can be removed easily). Put an M8 washer and a nut on a bolt that protrudes from the bottom of a stick.
Adjust stick height to your liking, cut the aluminum pipe accordingly, then route an ethernet cable through the pipe and crimp it as a regular ethernet cable.
Here’s how assembled stick looks:
Choosing a stick frame (IKEA GUNDE chair)
The main difference between them is, that bolt-on variant suits better for a spring loaded cyclic, while the detachable version is better with a non-centered one. Both variants are perfectly flyable with either version of cyclic gimbal though , so the only thing to decide is whether you need to be able to remove the lever by simply pulling it from its socket, or you can live with a thought you have to use 2 wrenches to attach or detach it.
Alternatively, you can just mount your cyclic gimbal to the floor and use a 8mm threaded rod to connect the stick grip.
Connect buttons and the pot board to an Arduino as follows:
POT BOARD VCC to PIN 10
POT BUTTON GND -> Arduino GND
POT VRx -> A0
POT VRy -> A1
POT BUTTON – between PIN 2 and GND
TOP (TRIMMER) – between PIN 3 and GND
MIDDLE (FIRE) – between PIN 4 and GND
BOTTOM – between PIN 5 and GND
TRIGGER INTERCOM – between PIN 6 and GND
TRIGGER PTT (full press) – between PIN 7 and GND
A4 (SDA) -> ethernet cable blue wire
A5 (SCL) -> ethernet cable green-white wire
VCC -> ethernet cable orange-white wire
GND -> ethernet cable orange wire
After soldering everything, put the Pro mini board into its socket, organize wires, put an M8x75 bolt with a nut into its place, and finally screw the halves together.
Simchair MKIII I2C latest software on GitHub