There are some really good news. The 1st set has reached Australia in 2 weeks, and the guys are pretty much happy with how it performs. More than that, they have already offered an interesting upgrade for the collective lever – a pneumatic tensioner! I simply can’t ignore that, so there will be at least a mod for it. I can’t say if it is better than rubber bands until I try it, but it sure looks very promising! The picture below shows how they’ve done it, check the video as well.
Thank you, Chris and Tony, this project has become what it is now largely because of your interest and contributions.
I have fixed some switch operation related bugs today and decided to make a video to show how to configure a collective head to suit your needs. Different sims can require different switch setups, for example, DCS Huey uses 3 of 4 modes for its collective head.
There are 4 switch modes, to assign a switch or a button to one of them look its joystick button number in joy.cpl and add it to one of the following arrays:
ab412_sw_mode_button_switches – push button mode – joystick button is pressed when you hold the switch, supports mode switch
ab412_sw_mode_toggle_switches – toggle switch mode – when the switch goes up, joystick button is pressed and released, when it goes back to the middle position – the button is pressed and released again (example : gear lever), ignores mode switch setting
ab412_sw_mode_selector_button_switches – maps a 3-way switch to 3 joystick buttons, one for “up” position, one for “down”, one for “middle”. Buttons are pressed when the switch is being held pressed. Example: landing light switch – up-hold-down.
ab412_sw_mode_selector_switches – same as the previous one, but joystick buttons are pressed and released. This is there in case someone needs it for something.
For first two types, you put buttons one by one to the array (one switch is 2 joystick buttons, so if the switch shows as buttons 3 and 4 in joy.cpl, you write both 3 and 4 to the corresponding array), for last two types you only write the lesser of two switch buttons (lets say a switch shows as buttons 14 and 15 in joy.cpl, then you only have to write 14). Do not forget to remove switch and button numbers from their previous mode array when you assign them to another mode.
If something needs more detailed explanation, or if you want some other interesting switch mode, please ask in comments!
While building the twin lever, I’ve decided to change the design of the throttle 1 frame p2 part to make throttle grips tension equal. The part now has a detent in it, that can also add some rigidness to the lever. If you’re building the twin lever, definitely use the new part! All updates are already on GitHub! I will be adding a similar part for the single throttle collective shortly.
Also made some fixes to AB412 head mods and software (added support for an extra mode switch)
Have just finished assembling the B8 stick grip. I can say that the manual here is perfectly correct, have soldered everything as it says and it worked immediately after flashing. No setup required, just flash it. The only thing that needs tweaking is the size of nut sockets – they are too tight, will make them a bit bigger. Quite perfect otherwise!
The new assembly manual is here! It’s been written right in the process of building the lever, so every smallest step is there to avoid possible issues. Follow it carefully, and you should have no problems assembling the lever!
I have made some changes to the pedals frame, it prints perfectly now. Press-fitting the 10x20x300mm aluminum pipe into the frame haven’t been easy at all before this update, I have broken one frame trying to do it. After that, I decided to make some changes to the model so it would be easier to fit the pipe through the rectangular aperture. After some thinking, I decided the best thing would be to incline the aperture to a 40-degree angle. And it worked perfectly! I’ve been able to press-fit the pipe without any problems and it was fixed stiff enough. Also, I have been able to test (finally!) if electronics housing lid screw sockets are of the right depth, and they are. Fifty-millimeter lid screws fit perfectly.
Another cool thing is I have removed some excess plastic to make the frame lighter (it consumes enough plastic already!) and faster to print while reducing a chance of warping of a few first layers. It does not affect the frame strength and rigidness in any way.
Along with the latest sensor mounts upgrades, these little changes make pedals perfect in flight and easy to assemble.
Hi guys, very good news here. All the stuff is finally on GitHub! Everything is updated to the very latest version, STLs are oriented correctly, just download, print, and fly.
This repo will be the only supported place to get the stuff from now on. I will add “Downloads” section with a current snapshot of the repo to this site. All the stuff on thingiverse was reorganized and files were replaced with the corresponding links to GitHub (this way you’ll always get the latest stuff without any extra effort from me).
The simple collective was removed, as we don’t really need it anymore because both single throttle and twin throttle levers feel as good, but also support heads. Let me know if you want it back.
adjusted electronics housing dimensions so screws will fit correctly
added nut sockets to the main frame part
redesigned magnet and SS495A Hall effect sensor mounts (IMPORTANT!)
changed inclination of apertures for a rectangular pipe in the main frame part to 40 degrees for easier fit of the pipe
the frame was lightened to reduce chances of warping during a long print
files renamed to fit the new naming scheme
everything published to GitHub
This is a very important upgrade! Along with mostly cosmetic stuff, it includes new HE sensor and magnet mounts, that are really game changers. New mounts work the same way as in cyclic or collective levers, and add A LOT of precision! It have been really noticeable when I spooled up the Dreamfoil 407 for a quick test ride. The heli felt unusually stable! As a nice bonus, these mounts noticeably simplify calibration and add some mechanical resistance to drops or accidental hits (this happens to pedals from time to time as the unit usually lies under the table).