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What to do if the master controller is bricked?

With VRMax head ported to the current line of the hardware, I’ve found that it’s now easier to exceed the available memory of the Leonardo, effectively bricking the controller.

So, what to do if it happened to you? No worries! You will need:

  • a USBASP programmer dongle
  • a 10 to 6 pin converter for it
    https://cutt.ly/TnIrgWb

    Install the driver for USBASP and connect it to the 6-pin ISP socket on the Leonardo.

https://myrobot.ru/downloads/programs/usbasp-win-driver-x86-x64-v3.0.7.zip

Select “Arduino Leonardo” from the boards menu in Arduino IDE and press “Write the bootloader”. After that, re-flash the Simchair firmware, and the controller is back to life again.

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Project updates: May 2021

Hi guys, here’s the video about the recent project updates:

In this video I talk about:
– the new EVO lever body
– VRMax head ported from MKIII version
– files re-organized, new naming convention, and changes to how files are stored
– simchair hardware configurator
– master configuration split into files
– the best way to test simchair hardware with joystick gremlin
– Arduino Pro Mega board

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Important software update

Hi guys! Today’s master controller update contains the following important changes:

  • fixed throttle related special functions in levers with a physical latch
  • added mode switch support for hat switches of Huey and AB412 heads

    if enabled

    #define HUEY_COLL_HEAD_HAT_RESPECTS_MODE_SWITCH 1

    or

    #define AB412_COLL_HEAD_LEFT_HAT_RESPECTS_MODE_SWITCH 1
    #define AB412_COLL_HEAD_RIGHT_HAT_RESPECTS_MODE_SWITCH 1

    it will assign a physical hat switch of the Huey (or 2 of the AB412 head) to different hat switches/sets of buttons in different mode switch positions.

Please update!

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To USB or not to USB? =)

Guys, a quick question, do you want a standalone USB version of the collective that will work without the master controller?

I see it as a lever for those of us who just want to add a collective to their existing system and the master box with one wire plugged in simply does seem really needed in that case.

This lever might have a USB-B socket on it instead of one of the RJ-45 sockets, this way you will still be able to connect extensions, but if the collective and, say, VRMax pedestal is all you really need, you won’t have extra wires and stuff hanging around.

What do you think? I’d like to hear some feedback in comments. Thanks! =)

Also, please fill the poll, that will help me to understand what devices are needed more than others =)

P.S. please leave a comment if you do so I could understand you’re not a robot.

Which peripherals do you have?

View Results

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MKIV master controller v2a is released!

The new controller features 5 I2C sockets for your peripherals, a stronger USB-B socket for durability, and peripheral flashing mode – no need for FTDI232 USB-UART board any more!

Just plug your device into 1st socket of the master, flip the mode switch to “P”, press the reset button (“R”), and flash it! Flip back to “F” to fly or update the master software.

The device is still stackable if you want some insane number of peripherals, the v2b version will be the regular one without flashing capability, meant for use as secondary controllers.

Look for the assembly/operating manual in the wiki!

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MKIV master controller V2

Long ago, when Simchair only existed as an idea in my mind, I mostly tried to use its prototype to control my Trex 450 and used Arduino UNO as the master controller. It had no native USB support and was generally a pain, but one thing was good about it – the reliable and strong USB-B socket. I was never happy with the micro USB one on the Leonardo – so I finally decided to redesign the controller and addressed a few of its problems. Here’s what was changed:

  • changed size of the box to 100x90mm
  • brittle micro USB socket on the board changed to USB-B socket glued into the box
  • 5th I2C socket added (the box needed to become larger to fit the new USB socket)
  • strengthened the front panel so it won’t be bending because of hot glue
  • removed the reset button (never used it)
  • added a rib that will help to hold sockets in place and protect the board from glue
  • fixed nut sockets height and chamfered their edges
  • new rounded design

I will publish the files after some testing.

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Documentation improvements

In the process of building another cyclic, I have taken some photos of improved cable management in the base – this way everything can still be detached for repairs with ease, yet looks cleaner than the old variant. I have also uploaded a pic of what goes where to the rates control panel manual – with it its much easier to get it right from the 1st time.

If you feel that something can be made better – and e.g. you can contribute some photos or a description of the part you found to be hard to understand / badly described in the wiki – please let me know, we will improve it together =)