This is a single-throttle Bell-style collective lever. It has a 200-degree throttle travel range and a 40mm diameter, just like the real one. It is specially designed for use with switchpanels (heads).
1 x 10x10mm aluminum square pipe
1 x 20×10 aluminum rectangular pipe for chair mounting (the mount for the IKEA GUNDE chair is included)
1 x SS495A hall sensor
1 x 10KOhm LINEAR potentiometer
1 x 6x6x4mm square magnet
4 x 3x40mm screws and nyloc nuts to connect the frame to its enclosure
2 x 3x20mm screw for lever connector axis strengthening
4 x 3x45mm screws for tensioner halves contraction
2 x M4x110mm screws and nuts
4 x m8x75 bolts, spring washers, and nuts
2 x 608 bearings (standard skateboard bearings)
1 x Arduino Pro mini
1 x Simchair MKIII I2C controller
super glue (cyanoacrylate)
- 5x5x5mm magnet holders
- pneumatic mod
- physical throttle latch mod
- aircraft compatibility modes support
- collective hold support
Assembly is very similar to a twin collective and pretty straightforward. Will add the manual soon, meanwhile, if you have any questions, please contact me through comments.
1. Cut a 180mm piece off a 10 square aluminum tubing. File edges of the cut.
2. Press fit an SS495A sensor to the socket and solder a 3- wire cable to it. Attach the cable to the underside of the lever frame part with hot glue.
3. Insert the alu piece into the lever connector part.
4. Insert lever connector part into the frame, put bearings on. Insert 2 M3x35mm screws, put nyloc nuts on them.
5. Secure the sensor in its socket with a drop of cyanoacrilate glue (superglue).
6. Screw an M3x40mm scre into the frame connector to remove supports from the hole.
7. Insert an M3x20 screw into the lever connector part from its right side.
8.Drill a hole in the 10mm square pipe piece through the hole in the lever connector part.
9. Attach the magnet holder, fix it with an M3x20mm screw. Insert the magnet into its socket in the holder and secure it with a drop of super glue. Turn the magnet holder as shown on the next picture:
10. Insert the lever frame assembly into the housing. Fix it with 4 M3x40mm bolts. We will use the latest mod with a side window.
11. Put 4 nuts with washers onto the bolts.
12. Fix the 10mm pipe in the lever connector part with an M3x20mm screw. Screw head should be on the window (left) side.
13. Put tensioner halves on. Widen holes in one of the parts with a PH0 type screwdriver and install that part on the left side of the lever (the one with the window). After that, put another part on and add 4 washers and nyloc nuts. Tighten them in a way so tensioner halves will be free to move sideways, but not forward.
14. Install 4 M3x50mm screws from the left side, put nuts on their other ends. Assembly of the base is finished! Let’s move on to the lever part.
15. Install the decorative cover onto the 10mm tubing.
16. Press-fit an M4 nut into the socket in the throttle frame part 1.
17. Insert a potentiometer into throttle frame p1.
18. Put the throttle frame part 1 onto the 10mm tubing. Drill holes in 10mm tubing through holes of the frame part 1.
19. Press-fit nuts into their sockets and insert 2 M3x30mm screws.
20. Route 4-wire I2C cable and 3-wire pot cable through the lever. This step may require some patience depending on wires used.
21. Solder the pot wires and route I2C cables through the cable channel in throttle frame part 1.
22. Turn the pot fully to the left, then just a notch to the right. Put the throttle grip on (widen its hole or squeeze the pot knob with pliers if needed) in a way that it will be in “full open” position (see picture below). Make sure it rotates freely.
23. Cut a 105mm piece of alu tubing and file its ends.
Insert the tubing piece into the throttle frame p2, drill it through its holes, press-fit nuts to sockets of throttle frame p2 and use 2 M3x30mm screws to fix the tubing piece in it.
24. Route 4-wire I2C cable through the throttle frame p2 part. Insert the part into the throttle grip, so the pin of throttle frame p1 will go into the socket in throttle pin p2.
25. Fasten 2 parts of the throttle frame together with an M4x110mm screw.
26. We will be using the physical throttle latch mod for this build. To assemble the modified I2C cable housing part, we will need a PBS-16B button, as well as printed parts from the mod folder. Note that the latch pin should be printed with 100% infill.
27. Disassemble the button and take out the spring. Put it into the throttle latch socket.
28. Insert throttle latch pin into the socket, squeezing the spring.
29. Glue the socket cover to the I2C connector housing part.
30. Glue the button top to the latch. You can choose between a small button and a scale 206-style one.
31. Solder the 4-wire I2C cable to an ethernet cable.
32. Add some hot glue to fix the ethernet cable in place.
33. Put the I2C cable housing onto the lever. Secure with an M3x35mm screw.
34. Solder cables to an Arduino Pro Mini board as follows:
- ALL +5V (including Ethernet socket pin 1 – white-orange wire) -> Pro Mini VCC
- ALL GND (including Ethernet socket pin 2 – orange wire) -> Pro Mini GND
- Ethernet socket pin 3 (SCL) -> Pro Mini pin A5
- Ethernet socket pin 4 (SDA) -> Pro Mini pin A4
- SS495A1 signal -> A0
- THROTTLE POT signal -> A1
35. Flash the board with single_collective.ino and calibrate the lever.
36. Now it’s a good idea to do some cable management.
37. Put the lid onto the housing and secure with 4 M8x75mm screws.
38. Make sure cables are fine inside of the enclosure and nothing touches the magnet, then close the hatch.
39. Install a head and drill holes in the square tubing where a mounting screw goes, then insert one.
Congratulations, the lever is finished! Install the pneumatic mod and enjoy realistic helicopter flying experience!
There’s also a very detailed build log by Peter, be sure to check it out!